Exploring the Culinary Scene of Santa Marta
A Journey Through its Vibrant Restaurants
Before coming to Santa Marta on the Caribbean Coast of Colombia, I read some generalized, dismissive comments on Facebook about the local food. It gave me the impression that the culinary scene was nothing to write home about. But the sweeping negative take also upset me as I felt it was disrespectful to all those who work hard in the hospitality industry and whose livelihoods depend on it. Some consider Santa Marta to be the overlooked stepsister of the famous Cartagena, which has many trendy eateries, but Santa Marta can hold its own.
I made a list of my personal favorites. It does not claim to be complete and is only a starting point to explore the town’s many delicious culinary flavors. I have no connection to any of them. I paid for all my meals. Some places were recommended to me, thank you; others I discovered on my own.
My favorite restaurant is Guasimo. Sophisticated food is served in an elegant ambiance. In comparison to other places, the prices are more upmarket as well. But well worth the treat. I had ceviche and warm tomato salad, finishing with a lovely little dessert served on a corn husk.
Address: Cra. 2 #19-15, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
My second favorite place is Casa Magdalena, located in a colonial mansion. I love the ambiance; there was live music on my day there. The entrance hall is decorated with paintings of my favorite Cienaga artist Pedro Mendoza Olivera. The delicious food seemed less Nouvelle and more Colombian. The crispy patacones – twice-fried plantain slices are yummy. I like micheladas – the addition of lime juice and a salt rim around the glass of the drink of one’s choice, usually beer. They do a particularly nice version of it with some tamarind paste.
Address: Av. El Libertador #14 - 93, Comuna 4, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Decerning carnivores should head straight to Porthos. Its stylish dark décor is part goth and part rock and roll. I was there during the football world championships, and two giant screens gave it a sports bar vibe. It is nicely air-conditioned if you need a break from the heat.
Address: Cl. 19 #3 - 25, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Carmen De Bolivar Afro across from the Malecon is another stylish option with elegantly presented food. I enjoyed their vegetarian ceviche. Their freshly baked yucca bread is the best. They have an indoor and an outdoor section.
Address: Calle 20 # 1c - 41 Malecón, Centro Histórico, Santa Marta, Magdalena
On one side of Parque de Los Novios, Santa Marta's main restaurant square is another outdoor location: Donde Chucho Gourmet. I enjoyed their seafood, a mero fish filet, and, on another evening, ceviche. They almost always have live music.
Address: Cl. 19 #2 - 17, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
I found two notable places on the parallel street to Plays de Cocos. Restaurante Mañe Cayan is super popular with Colombian families on holidays. Its sand floor contributes to the atmosphere of casual dining. Address: Cra. 1a #26-37, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
A little further down is El Gran Manuel, a very Colombian fish restaurant with a tasty Casuela de Mariscos – seafood stew, the best I had in town.
Address: Cra. 1a #26A-158, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Ouzo, outdoor dining directly on the Parque de Los Novios, is also popular but is only quiet if one opts for inside seating. I had mussels and salad which was fine, but most reviews say that the meat is best.
Address: Carrera 3 #19-29 Parque de los Novios, Santa Marta, Magdalena
At the nicely air-conditioned modern design Agua del Rio I had an underwhelming salad the first time I ate there, while the filet on my second visit was outstanding.
Address: Carrera 2 #16 - 47 Centro Histórico, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Restaurante LamArt is an eclectically decorated place with the vibes of an artist café.
Address: Cra. 3 #16-30, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Lulo Cafe Bar is next to it. Named after the delicious fruit, it is another excellent place. Both have more Bistro-style food. Sitting outside, you will involuntarily participate in parts of street life.
Address: Cra. 3 #16-34, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
Mi Oficina offers good value food, especially with their menu del dia.
Address: Cl. 18 #3 - 02, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
If you are a vegetarian, I can recommend Maharaja India Restaurante, an unpretentious, excellent Indian restaurant, for those days you are on a budget.
Address: Cra. 4 #14-34, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
A newcomer is Serena Tropical Bistro. The location with harbor views is stunning, and the ambiance is elegant. Its sesame-encrusted tuna made it a top contender in my list of favorites. The tropical salad was a delicious composition. But don’t expect a piece of bread if you want to scoop up some tasty sauce.
Address: Cl.23 ALD Camellon Marina de Santa Marta, Magdalen
I stayed at Hotel Boutique Casa Bethel but the restaurant, specializing in good Colombian food, is open to everybody. I enjoyed the old-world atmosphere of its colonial architecture.
Address: Cra. 1c #20 39, Comuna 2, Santa Marta, Magdalena
One place I was not crazy about was Carribean Team. The Americanized menu had many deep-fried items. The staff was also operating on US terms by adding an 18% service charge straight to the bill without asking which is not done here. Customary in Colombia is 10%. But the location at the end of the pier overlooking the harbor is ideal for a sun-downer.
Before heading out to eat, an important question is if one wants to dine indoors or al fresco. The more expensive places have closed off indoor dining. The casual places have an outdoor section right on the sidewalk. Your choice depends on how much you like to potentially interact with peddlers, street musicians, and panhandlers who pass by in a steady stream and observe other tourists and Colombian families. I have days when I need a total break from humanity and consider myself lucky to be able to retreat to personalized, attentive service in an indoor air-conditioned place. On other days I enjoy people-watching and am happy to give money to singing kids, sweet sellers, or others looking for little handouts.
Remember that dining experiences will depend on the day and time and what one orders that day. Most restaurants have tasty vegetarian options as well. In fairness to all the other lovely places not mentioned, I like to stress again that this is an incomplete list. If I missed one of your favorites, please tell me through the chat function so I can try it out.